When the economy went south in 2008, I wanted to incorporate some of its social implications into sewing. I made a prototype of a bag from a blue thrift shop shirt, with a distinct workman's feel. I tried to incorporate as many pieces of the shirt as possible and although it is definitely not a zero waste product, I tried to keep the waste to a minimum. The collar was used as closure, the Knopfleiste (button closure?) was used as a handle and it was lined so it could be reversible. The bag is remarkably sturdy and still looks like it was made from a shirt, which was the idea. I envisioned it to feature a slogan like "Losing my shirt, but carrying on" or something similar that would be either screen printed, appliqued or embroidered. I had big plans. The production never happened. Here is why:
Many of my ideas are victims of a fast moving world. My projects are often outdated before they see the light of day, because I like to work slowly. (I also have a family). Cost efficiency is not my strength, how can it be if you hand sew, especially it time is money. And last but not least, like the women in Dagenham, I don't really want to work for a lousy wage, even if it's something I love doing. Talk about respecting oneself!
The bag project was also an exercise in keeping a small footprint. In fact it was extremely small: Material: Local thrift shop. Process: Sewn by Hand. Energy used: A short ride to the thrift shop, some electricity and some food for me, the sewist. If I had outsourced any part of this, the footprint would have been larger, no matter how "green" my outsourcing would have been.
Here's where the project really hit the wall. None of this included any of the time it would have taken to organize and advertise, market and sell my creations. Even if I machine sewed the bags, there was just no way. I would have still been my own little one woman annekata sweatshop. The only way of making money would have been to outsource and/or sell the idea, but that was counterproductive to the message I wanted to convey. How could I protest work layoffs and that almost everything here is made in China with a bag "Made in China" or Thailand or India? It would have taken the essence out of the project, not to mention the fun.
The bags were also intended to help reduce the use of plastic bags (yes, they're still plenty used here in the US), but the price would have had to be very low to be a valid alternative. No matter what angle I looked at, it just didn't make sense.
In short, considering all the details of a business can be very eye opening and difficult, especially when trying to be idealistic. But it's even harder not to be idealistic, once you have your background information. It's like continuing to smoke cigarettes, even though you know the ramifications. It can be done, but doesn't feel so good.
In the end, needless to say, the idea was not pursued, but it was a real learning experience. Ah, well, back to the drawing board.
There are many ways of transforming pants and shirts into bags. If you would like to make one, it is easy and self explanatory looking at the pictures above.
How do you juggle creativity and ideals with economic and common sense?
The bag is brilliant - I am reallly keen on using recyled materials but I like them to keep some connection with their past - you have cleverly acheived this while at the same time giving it a faboulous new look x
ReplyDeleteWir hatten uns ja darüber unterhalten, und meine Schlussfolgerungen wären wie deine: Handgemachtes vermarkten würde für mich nicht funktionieren, denn weder Selbstausbeutung noch Unternehmertum im größeren Stil wären für mich eine Option.
ReplyDeleteWärst du in Berlin (und wäre Berlin eine Bankenzentrale), dann wäre dein Taschenentwurf und die ganze Idee dahinter als sozial engagiertes Kunstprojekt vorstellbar: Entlassene Investmentbanker nähen eine Woche lang die Taschen in einem malerisch verwahrlosten Ladengeschäft in Neukölln, damit ihr Tag wieder eine Struktur bekommt. Besucher können ihnen beim Nähen zusehen und die Taschen erwerben, die natürlich ziemlich teuer sind, schließlich handelt es sich um Teil eines Kunstwerks. Der Erlös wird gespendet, und zum Schluss der Aktion gibt es auf jeden Fall eine große Party. Berichterstattung in den Hauptstadtfeulletons wäre dir sicher - eine Geschäftsidee ist es trotzdem nicht.
viele Grüße!
@Lucy: Ich weiss, ich hab auch sehr an unser Gespraech gedacht, aber manchmal flirte ich noch mit der einen oder anderen Idee.
ReplyDeleteVielen Dank fuer deinen brillianten Kommentar. Ich hab laut gelacht. Eine prima Idee, den Investmentbankern eine sinnvolle Arbeit zu vermitteln. Um den oekologischen Fussabdruck wirklich klein zu halten, koennten sie ja auch ihre eigenen "WhiteCollar" Shirts vernaehen. Ein prima statement waere das. Hemden statt Plastik. Und obgleich keine Geschaeftsidee, gaebe es wenigstens eine Party... Ich glaub, ich zieh nach Berlin.
@ Lucy: Hihi, Künstlerin sollte man sein!
ReplyDelete@ annekata: Thanks for sharing your considerations. They are very illustrative.
About "Knopfleiste": Ask LEO. :-)
Dieses Gedankenkarussell (etwas Kreativ machen, das einem gefällt und wichtig ist, damit aber auch Geld verdienen) dreht sich in so vielen Köpfen, gerade hier in Berlin. In meinem dreht es sich auch immer wieder, bis ich es zwischendurch ignorieren kann. Der Schlüssel für mich ist, mir immer wieder zu sagen: Geld bekommen, das geht, aber VERDIENEN, im Sinne von einen finanziellen Gewinn machen, das geht auf diese Art nicht.
ReplyDeleteLeider gaukeln diese ganzen kleinen "business" im Kreativbereich etwas anderes vor. Aber am Ende müssen doch alle zugeben: Eine Familie ernähren könnten sie damit nicht. Der Unterhalt kommt immer woanders her. Das finde ich ganz normal, und das ist für den Großteil der Künstler auch schon immer so gewesen - Mäzene, Freunde oder die Familie haben sie unterstützt.
Da liegt Lucy mit ihrem treffenden Beispiel also völlig richtig. Und das Hemdennähprojekt würde dann noch aus der Kunststiftung einer Bank bezahlt.
Danke für deinen Post, für mich ist es schon gut zu wissen, dass ich mit meinem Gedankenkarussell nicht allein drehe.
hello. i have something for you in my blog.. ;)
ReplyDeletehi, i have just recently found your blog and love visiting. i am german born living in australia, also a mother and artist and i sometimes struggle with the same issues: making things by hand out of an artistic impulse rather then calculating the time/money ratio and then having to put a price on it that honours my work and is affordable... difficult! i love the blue collar bag! i have recently made myself a bag from a second-hand t-shirt ( http://nipabese.typepad.com/blog/2011/01/new-bag.html ).
ReplyDeletewarme gruesse aus australien, nicole.
Annekata, the word in English that you were searching for is "placket." There is a placket for the side with the buttons, and a placket for the side with the buttonholes. It probably comes from another language, not English, but that's the word my mother taught me, anyway!
ReplyDeleteKathrin, everything you mention are things I struggle with as well. A big part of it is that the masses are just not there yet. In the past few years, I've seen a greater interest in handmade goods, but the perceived value of handmade items does not match up to the actual value. This is especially true with handsewn and knit items.
ReplyDeletehere, here! i agree with and love everything you have written here. it is a well known battle to myself and i'm just about ready to accept it fully...i too work very slow and sit on ideas until i have more time or the supplies and then someone else "beats me to it" or i'm too early and ahead of the game and years after i make something it hits the trends and i'm at the bottom of the heap.
ReplyDeletethank you for your lovely articulation on them atter. you are quite eloquent and clear. such a gift you shared, thank you!
~jessica